Meyers Manx Kick-Out Tradional

[Brad Connell]

With the pan done it is time to fit the body, now this in itself brings its own issues.

We start by putting the pan together as shown complete with wheels. Once that is done we sit the body on the pan



We then take it outside to do the actual fitting as you will often find you need to grind some of the inner body returns to allow for the shape of the floor pans in the rear corners. Once outside we simply lift it up and down at the rear while we take out any excess material.

[img]resizes/Meyers-Manx-Kickout/Kick-Out-Traditional/KO-1-of-2016/20160301_085802.jpg[/img]



This is also the same time we fit the rear lights, steering column etc and anything else we can think of that will make a mess in the shop and put fiberglass dust on everything.



Once done we put it down and push it back in.



The reason we do this when the pan is rolling is that I like to center the body relative to the wheels and tires and not necessarily the pan. Nothing is square in most Buggy Bodies so the tires are the main thing people look at.

[Brad Connell]

So with the body ready to go on we can look at the next step which is bolting it down. To do this we like to use the factory pan holes so we remove the body and start on the pan. With the body on you can't see the factory holes so you need to either drill from under side which sucks or make it so you can see where they are.



To do this we simply chalk the pan .





We then lay out our mounting hardware and ensure it is good to go. The Meyers Manx Kit comes with the body mounting bolts and we use factory style body washers to fit under the pan lip and keep it strong.



Once happy we drop the body into place and drill the body in the center of the lip in line with the body holes.



Doing it this way keeps it all looking neat and centers the mounting washers.

Now you will often get a body that don't want to play and it sucks in on the sides.



If it does this then mount the best side in its favor and use a small jack or timber length to force the other side out. Sorry no pictures but feel free to ask.

Also remember the front two holes hardly ever get used so don't stress it. If you want to use them you will probably need to add a bracket.



When we mount we push the body back if anything to give more room for the tires to turn.

[Brad Connell]

With the body on and in place, clean it up and seal it on .



Now we can move on to other stuff like finishing the body fit out

One thing to pay attention to is the alignment of the windscreen with the roll bar and rear body.





Luckily I have the wonder of time travel so we jump a head a few hours cause I must have forgotten to take some pics ...



So we can start installing the loom which we made a few posts back. The looms are designed to install from the rear so it goes in from there and gets pulled forward



In most cases where there is any chance of confusion I will do wire wrap labels to make it easier for anyone in the future to see what goes where.



As we move to the front we keep doing the same thing with labels to avoid issues .



The base wires for the fuse box are put in on the bench. I write on the back what is what so I don't get confused with flipping. One great things is that the fuse box is sealed once done so no issues creep in .



Then it is time to make neat meet buggy lol



The wires get to have a party in the front, thanks Bruce to making the hood open

[Brad Connell]

The TurnKeyManx fuse panel is designed to flip up when working on it so you simply sit it in place and start wiring it all up. As you go your group stuff and make it look as neat as possible.



Before we can do to much though we need to do a dash for it. In this case it is a pretty simple design as we will be using the VW Beetle speedo and some switches.



So we Draw it



Cuts it



Paints It



Sands It



And Installs it



With the dash in we can wire it and start to close this puppy out

[Brad Connell]

In regards to wiring there are a few small tricks to making your life easy, here are two of them

If you are using a Manxter Style front bar and it has the indicator tabs on it



Then before you install the lights cut some slots in them so you can get the damn wires in and out as once you terminate the front indicators you will never get them off.



Once you have cut make sure you sand it smooth... in fact I will see if I can get these tabs changed to have a slot from factory .

add some tabs onto your front hood hinge to attach the wires to when you loom your lights



Ok so back to work ......

So dash done ..



I add one of these plugs onto all the wire jobs we do and offer a trailer loom so you can simply plug it in to make towing it oh so easy.



Finish up the front loom and hide it away pre tank install



Then drop in the tank and almost time to fire it up

[Brad Connell]

One of the issues I always seem to have is WTF do I do with the rear number plate on the kick-out .... simple question but no real solution.

That is of course until now with the TurnKeyManx rear Number Plate mounting thingy



Even has a nice light on it to keep the cops happy.

Picks up the lower bar tabs to stop it shacking about ... I hate it when a number plate does that .,



So with rear lights sorted time to get back up the front. We drop on our hood with headlight loom in place, I use a weatherpak connector to make it easy to pull on and off

[img]resizes/Meyers-Manx-Kickout/Kick-Out-Traditional/KO-1-of-2016/P1040505.JPG[/img]

Of course we have out tabbed hinge to keep it neat



And we are almost done ....



Just need to add our TurnKeyManx Handbrake cover and flange ..



And a heap of other cool trinkets and I think it is almost time to call it ...

Oh hang on we need to take it for a test drive ..



Test Dude in place, gas in tank, smile on face ... yep another Test Drive complete ...



I will get some better finished pics next week as I have a DSBE to get ready for a B'Day Party